Saturday – Kwaheri (Goodbye)

Our room was very comfortable we were tired after a long day, we were well fed, but no one slept well Friday night. Maybe it was the anticipation of African withdrawal. We repacked all of our treasures amongst far too much dirty laundry and set off with John to see the sights on our last day in Africa. We had saved a few soccer balls that we had brought with us for the children of Kibare. Kibare is a slum of more than a million people used as the site of filming in “The Constant Gardener”. We toured the city on the way to the Sheldrick project for orphan elephants. We were there during the one visiting hour of the week – Saturday from 11am-12pm. They bottle feed each of these elephants one or two 4 liter bottles of SMA (human baby formula). Cow’s milk isn’t well matched, and it is very hazardous to try to milk mother elephants. After breakfast they played and rolled in the mud, before venturing back to the Nairobi Game Park.

Next was the Giraffe Park. There were about a dozen giraffe that gathered by a simple fence to be fed by visitors to the park. Attendants passed out handfuls of feed and the giraffe would take one pellet at a time from your hand (or lips) using his 10 inch slender blue tongue. They could form a tight curl with their tongue to lift a pellet from an open palm. A few giraffe would deliver a “head butt” if they felt your attention was elsewhere. Each patron was to feed only 2 handfuls of pellets as the giraffe were on a diet. Somehow giraffe diets seems as easy to keep as the ones that I have tried. It was great fun.

Friday – Nairobi

We have spent so little time in Nairobi that we elected to return from Mombasa a day early and catch some of the highlights of Kenya’s largest city (4 million people). James met us again promptly at 7am to take us to the Mombasa airport in time to catch our 9:25am flight. The roads were still a little rough, and we were told that it might take well over an hour to reach the airport, especially considering the morning rush hour traffic. James was more than up for the challenge. Driving alternate routes, following residential streets, and for several blocks creating his own path right down the middle of the road – creating a third lane in a narrow 2 lane road, we reached the airport in 45 minutes. With roads ridden with potholes, incredible volumes of vehicles and rules of the road that I don’t understand, I was glad to be chauffeured about.

John was ready to meet us in Nairobi and was our tour guide for the next 2 days. The first stop was the Snake Park. Perhaps we should have become acquainted with the creatures of the country at the start of the trip. On the other hand, perhaps ignorance is bliss. We saw snakes hanging from trees, crocodiles disguised among the rocks and tortoises playing among them all. We met Black Mambas, Green Mambas, pythons, spitting cobras, scorpions and all manner of interesting creatures. Some of these snakes can eat an antelope – horns and all!


We left for the safety of the Village Market. This huge shopping complex was like an open air version of West Edmonton Mall. It seemed very out of place in the Africa we had come to know over the past weeks, but was home to many of the Mizungu (white people) living in and around Nairobi. Each Friday there is an open air Masai Market. Well over a hundred stalls with friendly, engaging vendors offering bargains to the wary shoppers looking for local crafts. As usual, Lori got some great bargains, and they somehow parted me with all of my money once again. I had to exchange a little more at the Nakumatt supermarket. There were some excellent crafts, but it was very hard to “browse” through the stalls without leaving a stream of money as you go.

Mayfield Guest House was our final stop. We met several missionaries that we had encountered during our first stay at Mayfield. We shared some of the adventures of the weeks apart and settled into our room. We had supper of hamburgers, potato chips, and salad with sweet Kenyan pineapple for dessert. The internet was down so was unable to update the “blog” from Nairobi. These final posts will have to wait until we arrive home Sunday night.

Thursday – Marilyn Bush

In the fall of 1990 we spent several weeks in Kenya with Marilyn Bush and Deborah Sirjoosingh. We were privileged that Marilyn was back in Mombasa following a teaching session in Malindi, and that she was able to drive the hour to Kikambula to spent a few hours with us. It was fascinating to gain the insights of a seasoned missionary and we were honoured to share an afternoon with one who has invested a lifetime in Africa.

Our residual groceries (leftovers) found their way to her car as we would not be able to bring them back to Canada and were certainly were trying to avoid the outrageous excess baggage charges on our return flight to Nairobi.

WOW

Wednesday – The Fishing Excursion

Ken Rodwell was at the Reception Desk at 7:30 in preparation for our deep sea fishing adventure. His grandfather moved to their place at the mouth of the Mtwapa River at the end of the Second World War. Both he and his son were originally journalists and started one of Kenya’s first newspapers, the Kenya Times. Recently they have turned their interests to fishing. We boarded a 36 foot yacht and headed out to sea. With all of the recent rains, we had to travel almost 2 nautical miles before we were at the beyond the tidal fresh water.

We began to troll along the “seaweed line” running 7 lines simultaneously in addition to the 2 lure lines designed to attract the fish to the surface. All of the lines ran at the surface, carefully placed to avoid entanglement and to give a broad coverage behind the boat. Within about 20 minutes the first fish hit the line and I found myself in the “fishing” chair fighting and reeling in a 6-7 kg Dorado (also known as Mahi Mahi in Hawaii). They really like to jump and it is impressive to watch as he is landed. We all had opportunity to land fish. Adam and Lori brought in the largest at just over 10kg !!

It is luxurious to be taken to the fish, to have expert staff to place and lure the rods, as well as to land the fish in the boat once you reel them in. We met back at the house following fishing for some tea and coffee while our choice of fish was cleaned and prepared for us to take back with us to the resort. The other fish were shared among the staff. Everyone was able to enjoy the success of our fishing expedition.

We returned with our prize catch and were met by the chef and his staff who took instructions as to how to prepare our “catch of the day” Lori and I elected to have ours pan-fried while the kids opted for fish and chips. It was a great meal and a wonderful fishing adventure in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Kenya.

Tuesday – The Mombasa city tour

Torrential rains drenched the Mombasa coast as we prepared for our local city tour. Armed with several umbrellas, sandals (to let the water flow over our feet) and a few cameras we ventured into the city. The long tortuous drive coursed through wild traffic, potholes, flooded streets and deep mud. We toured the country’s largest wood carving center where 3000 workers toil in crude shelters to create remarkable carvings of wood and stone. We lingered in the showroom but despite all the incredible carvings we purchased only a little jewellery.



Fort Jesus was built by the Portuguese in the 1400s and was a part of much of the early history of settlement in Africa. A tour of the old city of Mombasa illustrated some of the earliest administration in East Africa – some 6-800 years old. Swimming in the rain completed the afternoon and we even managed a call home to the farm – albeit for an exorbitant charge.

4 hours and a lot of fingers braiding


They have had "a lot of rain"!

Monday – Labor Day

Today Carly ventured to the local “hair studio” and spent 3 hours and 3 hairdressers with flying fingers created “Rasta” hair for her with 107 braids some hair extensions and a collection of green and blue beads. The rain filled the morning but cleared as we met the dive instructors at a resort south of Mtwapa. Carly, Brett and I joined 2 others from the Royal Reserve as we learned some of the basics and signals of diving in the resort pool. After about an hour exploring the pool, we refilled the air tanks added a little weight to compensate for the salt water swim and headed out to the reef. The water was incredibly warm. Almost like our pool at home… it must have been about 28-30C degrees.

Lori and Adam joined us with snorkelling gear. We sat on the edge of the boat and slipped off backwards into the Indian Ocean “like a mango falling from the tree”. The experience was incredible. We were surrounded with schools of tropical fish that swam among us as we explored the reef. We found sea urchins, several Manta Rays, a Moray eel, and a spectacular assortment of fish. We were underwater at about 6 meters for 40 minutes before the reserve air in our tanks reached its limit. By the time we returned to the dive shop the rains were almost torrential. We changed into dry clothes only to be soaked by the time we walked the short distance to the hotel.

The flooding in the communities was remarkable with many storefronts in the middle of newly formed lakes. Our resort was not without a little water as well. Most of the road to the resort from the main highway was underwater, often more than a foot deep. The water was several inches above our shoes as we walked into the complex. Shoes, sock and pants were all soaked.

Monday was African night at the restaurant so we joined them for their set menu filled with typical African foods– pasta, hot dogs, beef stroganoff, chicken fricassee (somehow it seems much like our food at home). There was some African “color” later. Following the meal, a group of Masia dancers presented a collection of traditional dances. Near the end of the program they recruited some volunteers from the audience, and Lori and Adam joined in.

Following the program Masai set a market. Basically they display their wares on a simple sheet on the cement in the rain and encourage us to bargain for their art. I am hopeless at negotiating – they usually take all of my money the time I leave, often for things that I don’t really want. Even when I don’t have any money they somehow get me to return to my room and bring money to “support their business”. Lori on the other hand always gives them a run. Greeting the craftsmen and beginning to bargain in Swahili catches them by surprise. “Mama” will make them work for every sale often buying items for a third of the asking price. They usually bring out a small scrap of paper or simply write on their hand. The vendor enters the first price then each offers and counter-offers until an agreement is reached or they walk away.

Sunday – A day at the resort

We settled into the resort and readjusted to life as tourists. As per the usual “timeshare” routine, we attended a very informative “Introductory Meeting” in which we met the staff and learned some of the opportunities available at the complex. The boys were suffering withdrawal from electronic media and very quickly learned the hours of the Playstation at the Kids Center, and filled in other gaps in the day with selections from satellite television. There was no internet, but telephone services were readily available (for a price).



Some members from a local dive school came to offer introductory diving in the pool. Carly, Brett and I tried on the gear and swam around the pool for about 15 minutes each. Adam was too young to try this time. You need to have had your 8th birthday to start. Lori declined the invitation, having experienced more than enough diving during a similar program in the Caribbean. There are two pools on site, a volleyball, some small coconuts, a basket ball hoop and a collection of other kids to keep the kids busy in the water.

Mombasa

We have been without internet access for the past week while we have been on the coast at Mombasa. This has been a very different view of Kenya and a different perspective for us – that of tourists and not as volunteers. We will try to capture the week day by day and post it as a block upon reaching Nairobi on Friday.

Saturday – Kijabe to Mombasa

A Kenyan gynaecologist and his family are moving into the house that we have called home for the past month. They will be bringing their own furnishings so all of the appliances and furniture from the house need to be moved prior to his arrival later today. In an effort to “get out of the way” so they can work in the house, we asked to be picked up at 9am and hoped to find something to see or do along the trip to the airport.

A steady rain accompanied the fog that blanketed the hills from Kijabe to Nairobi. The Chinese President is scheduled to visit the Tea Farm at Limuru so armed police are posted in the rain along the highway in anticipation of his visit at 10am. We traveled with ease to Nairobi, but the traffic of the city was at a standstill in many places and it took almost 2 hours to reach the Jomo Kneyatta Airport. Our driver unloaded the suitcases and a very helpful “local” loaded them onto a cart and headed to the pre-screening x-ray area. He was most apologetic after spilling all of the bags trying to climb onto the sidewalk, but still was most eager for “a small tip” for his efforts. Though he was willing to accept any currency, the Canadian money we offered was returned in exchange for a 10 Shillings (about 3 cents) local currency.

We struggled with checking in. Despite only a few passengers ahead of us, we encountered a very junior check-in clerk who struggled at each step. We were unaware that the limit of local flights is 20kg per person, not the 44kg per person we had been allowed for the international flights. This generated an excess baggage of charge of over 4000 KSh (about $80). The bags had already gone down the belt, so we were committed and weren’t going to see them again unless we paid the fee. The bright MasterCard symbol at the desk didn’t help process the fee any faster, any eventually we had to abandon that transaction for VISA, which proceeded effortlessly (remember to take BOTH cards!)

We had an uneventful flight to Mombasa and collected all of our (now even more valuable) luggage. Once all of the bags were on the belt they shut off the power to the carousel and you had to walk around to collect your remaining pieces. They were well prepared for us in Mombasa. Our travel agent had arranged for a ride who was there with the sign to greet us, as well, there was a driver from the resort prepared to meet us. Always nice to have options…

Traffic is WILD… I am glad that someone else is dong the driving. We stopped at the Nakumatt (grocery superstore) on the way to the resort and we stocked up with a few staples for the condo for the week. I felt so bad for the young porter that had the job of carrying our overweight luggage up 2 floors to our unit. The sweat was pouring off of him once the last suitcase was delivered. We have a very spacious 2 bedroom unit with air conditioning (good), mosquito nets (very good), satellite TV (not so good), daily housekeeping (much appreciated), and a well equipped kitchen (great for impromptu meals and snacks).